Interior
From Boxster Tech
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[edit] Floor Mats
[edit] Ignition Switch
Note: This is NOT the main lock assembly/tumbler body where the key is inserted. It is an electro-mechanical component that mounts at the end of the lock assembly.
Symptoms: Key sticking in the Ignition Switch. Inability to get final solenoid click when removing key. Intermittent a/c fan operation. Sloppy feel when turning key.
The replacement switch part number, from your Audi dealer, is 4A0 905 849 B. A description of the replacement procedure is located here.
Also: here is another source
[edit] Ignition Switch - Internals
I tore my old ignition switch apart...here's what I found:
First, the exploded shot: http://home.earthlink.net/~dowbjts2/switch/1s.jpg
Next, the connector head. The white plastic pin is spring loaded.
It seems ok:
http://home.earthlink.net/~dowbjts2/switch/2s.jpg
Here is the yellow internal that holds two spring loaded brass pins.
These pins ride against the bottom of the black plastic cap and
eventually wear it out. This metal to plastic interface is the
cause of the failure:
http://home.earthlink.net/~dowbjts2/switch/3s.jpg
Here's a closeup of the pins. They drop into the two square holes at
the 1 o'clock and 5 o'clock positions:
http://home.earthlink.net/~dowbjts2/switch/4s.jpg
Finally, the culprit. This is the inside of the end cap showing the
grooves where the brass pins ride. In the lower left you can see where
a small stop ear broke off. (In pic #1, the stop ear is the little piece
in the lower left.)
http://home.earthlink.net/~dowbjts2/switch/5s.jpg
Conclusion:
This mission critical part is really poorly engineered.
One can expect continued failures proportional in frequency
to the number of ignition cycles.
Always carry a spare in your car.
Cost is ~$10 + shipping for the switch.
[edit] Headlight Switch
The headlight switch can be accessed by first removing the driver's side air vent. This thread at Renntech explains how to remove the switch assembly: Ac Side Air Vent Removal, How do I remove the light switch? (registration required to read)
[edit] "Non-Smoker" tray
The ashtray in the center console can be replaced with a non-smoker tray to place coins or other small items. A fantastic web page with excellent photos on how to install your non-smoker tray by tom Morris
[edit] Sun Visors
The tops of the sun visors in some markets have a large decal with air bag warnings that many owners dislike. Some remove the decals entirely with a solvent, while others purchase a black cover-up sticker to go over the bright decal. Cover-up stickers can be found for sale on eBay as well as in the Classifieds area of PPBB.com.
[edit] Upholstery
986 Boxsters were shipped with one of two levels of leather, Standard and Full. More information on the Leather page.
987 Boxsters reportedly have been shipped with different combinations (please add information)
[edit] Repairs to leather
Information about repairing cracked, worn and faded leather for both automobiles and furniture can be found on the Leatherique web site. The company offers exact color matching if you can provide a sample of the leather.
[edit] Removing interior door panels
Here's a great website with instructions on how to take off the interior door panels. door panel removal
[edit] Center Console Assembly
Removing and Replacing: The most commonly used instructions to remove the center console are those supplied by B&M Racing with their Short Shifter kit.
Download this file: Short Throw Shifter Installation Instructions. (Adobe Acrobat file)
For the newer 987 models, this message thread also is helpful Cayman Club: Swapping Your Center Console
Console Delete There is a technique to completely remove the console assembly and replace it with a smaller one, opening up space below the dash.
(someone please insert link, picture or instructions here)
Hinges: Pre-2001 Boxsters had a plastic hinge on the armrest cover that was susceptible to breakage. An inexpensive kit (~$25) is available that replaces the two plastic hinges with a metal piece fastened with two pop rivets. Porsche Technical Service Bulletin: Oddments Tray Cover (Adobe Acrobat file)
[edit] Door latch cable replacement (Bowden Cable)
contributed by JG in ATL.
The Bowden cable is a cable that connects the inside door opening handle to the actual latch at the back side of the door. Mine had snapped. Detailed instructions are posted below.
A couple of interesting notes: - Looking at the Auto Atlanta parts book, they showed a price for this piece of $110. The cost from the dealer was $9.16. I paid cash and ran. This is almost as cheap as a red clip! In talking to the parts guy, this may be a new design for the cable because he was talking about having to replace the door handle along with some screws. I assured him that I did not need these parts. - Which leads me to the second point which I believe that this part has been replaced before on my car. The inner door liner was loose from the glue and torn just exactly as you would expect if it had been accessed previously. Also some of the plastic tabs on some of the plastic door trim pieces were already broken off.
For starters, the picture below left is of the new cable on top and my broken cable below it. Note the S-curved hook on the right that connects to the door handle. In the picture on the right, the hook on the left connects to the door latch mechanism.
To replace the cable:
1. Remove the inner door panel as per the instructions above. Go ahead and remove the door light at the bottom of the door (it just pulls out) and completely remove the panel.
2. You will need to remove the plastic clip that is holding the cable and a wire bundle from the door. It just pulls out.
3. Remove the metal panel that restricts access to the latch mechanism. It is held in place by 4 10mm hex bolts. The top right bolt is one of the bolts that holds the door airbag unit in place. No need to remove the airbag unit.
4. Remove the 2 screws that hold the door latch in place. These are 8mm triple square screws. For the Atlanta crowd, I found a driver bit for this at a place called Tools Warehouse - when I asked at a local NAPA store the parts guy had no clue. You only need to loosen the latch, you do not need to remove it completely.
5. Here is a pic of the end of the Bowden cable that you need to remove from the latch mechanism.
6. To get where you can remove this end of the cable, you have to loosen the bracket that is holding the latch mechanism. I finally ended up using a small screwdriver to pry the two pieces apart. I found 3 plastic tabs that hold them together. I pried the two on the right side enough to get the cable loose.
Once the cable is loose, you rotate it to where the cable is at 90 degrees to the slot in the latch and pull it out. This picture shows the cable in the latch with one of the tabs loose, just before prying the other tab loose and rotating the cable. With that, the old cable is out and you reverse the process it install the new one. Here is a picture of the new cable connected to the door pull:
Once I got the cable free, it only took me half an hour to replace it and reassemble everything. It took me a lot longer to get to that point.
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