Wheel Bearing Change
From Boxster Tech
Contents |
[edit] Wheel bearing change on a 1999 Porsche Boxster
Through many days and several calls to several Porsche shops and the designer of the SIR Bearing R/R tool, not to mention many pleading messages on Porsche Pete's Boxster Board I was able to figure out how to remove and replace the front wheel bearings “on the car” as the Bentley manual says. The manual however declines to show how to do this method, so I winged it and now I’m writing this up for everyone else. The designer of the tool insisted that the tool would only work on the rear bearings, but I insisted that the front and rear wheel carriers were the same, and therefore, if it was designed for the rear bearings, it should work on the fronts as well. Again he said it would not, but I gave it a shot, and it did work. I gotta give him a call and let him know when I finish the other wheel. The tool is great and very easy to use with 2 people. A great addition to your tool box if you plan on owning your Boxster for "life" as I think these bearings are only good for around 50-70k miles. I would suggest paying the extra $ for the full SIR kit that has the Hub pulling pieces. Not sure if Pelican Parts offers it anymore, I think I was lucky and got the full kit by mistake! Pelican Parts Bearing Tool
[edit] Tools Required:
These are the tools I used, some you will need, some you will want, and some you might find a way around.
600ft/lb Torque wrench, or one that can do 340 ft/lbs
Small and medium Torque wrench see torque chart at bottom.
Spring compressor, rented from Autozone
SIR B90-P2 Rear Hub/Bearing Extractor and Installer Kit. (Pelican Parts Bearing R&R Tool)
18mm socket, ½” drive
Torx star wrench set
¾” socket
11/16” box wrench
18mm box end wrench
PB Blaster
Grease
Torch(optional)
Impact screwdriver
Jack & jack stands
32mm Socket, got mine from Autozone for $13, they also rent it for $15. You get the $15 back upon return
Wheel crest removal tool. I used a bent welding rod.
Lug bolt wrenchDrop light
Anti-seize paste
Hammer and small brass drift
Small punch
I think that’s all.
[edit] Parts Required:
Wheel bearing(s)
Brake caliper bolts 2 per wheel. Purchased from Suncoast Porsche.
[edit] Procedure:
[edit] Step 1
Remove the wheel crests using the removal tool or a bit of bent wire, I used a welding rod I snagged from work. After the crest is removed, take your monster torque wrench, 32mm socket and a short extension (helps keep the tool away from your paint!) and break loose the center hub bolt. After loosening the hub nut, break free the lugs and raise the car up on the jack and stands.
[edit] Step 2
Remove wheel. Now is a good time to give your rim a real good cleaning and waxing, easy to get to the back with it off the car.
[edit] Step 3
Remove the brake pads by pulling the cotter pin and bolt that holds in the retaining clip. Next disconnect the brake pad sensors. Remove the pads, they should come out easily if you push them apart a bit using the tabs on the tops of them. Take note as to which is the inboard and outboard so they will match up with the rotor when they go back on. Using your hex driver and small torque wrench, remove the brake caliper bolts. Remove the caliper and place on a box or suspend with wire as to not put stress on the brake lines. Next remove the screw holding the brake disc to the hub with the impact screw driver, mine was missing, maybe it had vibrated loose from my last brake job.
[edit] Step 4
Next you will need to remove the strut. I started by removing the tie rod with the 18mm box wrench and the torx driver. It should be torqued to 75 NM. I then marked the placement of the upper three strut tower nuts in the front trunk. Once they were marked I removed them, noting which went where. Next I used the 18mm wrench and a 18mm socket to remove the bearing carrier to sway bar-connecting bolt. Next I used the spring compressor and was able to swing the strut down and out of the wheel well. I then removed the strut from the wheel-bearing carrier and set it aside. Now you have access to the rear of the wheel-bearing carrier that was blocked by the bottom of the strut.
[edit] Step 5
Now remove the wheel spindle/abs sprocket from the back of the wheel.
[edit] Step 6
Now you will have to set up the SIR tool to pull out the hub. The large horseshoe type piece fits behind the hub and I let it press up against the couple bolts that hold on the brake cooling shield. On the backside of the wheel carrier you thread on the elongated nut. Using a 11/16” wrench on the elongated nut, and a ¾” socket on the front side, tighten them together and the hub and the inner part of the bearing will come out.
[edit] Step 7
I put the hub in the freezer over night and then using a hammer and bass drift I tapped the inner bearing race off of the hub after heating the bearing piece with a torch.
[edit] Step 8
Remove the bearing dust cap. Now set up the SIR tool to remove the bearing from the wheel carrier. The elongated nut and the bearing removal spacer go on the backside of the carrier. The other 3 pieces can be seen in the picture as shown. Tighten the tool together with the 11/16” wrench and ¾” socket and the bearing wll slide out.
[edit] Step 9
Now that the bearing is out you can begin putting things back together. Set up the SIR tool to press the bearing into the wheel carrier as shown. The instructions say to use the same 3 pieces that you used to remove the bearing, on the backside of the carier, but I found that the tool would not fit properly with the #9 ring piece. I just used the round plate and the large spacer on the back, and the elongated nut and the bearing insertion plate on the front. I had the bearing in the freezer over night to ease the insertion. I also applied a little grease to the inside of the wheel carrier. Since I had to be quick, I couldn’t get any pictures so here’s the SIR diagram. Again make sure not to use the # 9 piece or the tool will not line up properly.
[edit] Step 10
After the bearing is in place, put the dust cover back on making sure the slot is on the bottom. It is now time to re-insert the hub into the carrier. Again I had the hub in the freezer with the bearing to ease the entry of the hub. Here is the diagram from the SIR manual:
[edit] Step 11
Now you can go ahead and put everything back together the reverse you took it apart. The alignment should be close but I will be taking it in for an alignment when I’m done. Here are the torque settings you will need from the Bentley manual:
Front strut to body: 24ft/lb
Wheel to hub: 96ft/lb
Sway bar to wheel carrier: 63ft/lb
Brake caliper to wheel carrier: 63ft/lb
Brake line bracket: 7.5ft/lb
Tie rod to wheel carrier: 56ft/lb
Hex nut to tension bolt(wheel spindle/ ABS sprocket): 340ft/lbs
Bearing retainer plate(dust cap) 4 bolts: 27ft/lbs
